Barbera, two ways: Conterno and Sandrone
Barbera is one of the most food friendly red grapes since it can have wonderful red and black fruit aromas, invigorating acidity and lightness in tannin. Sandwiched between the “lesser” Dolcetto and the late-ripening Nebbiolo in the hierarchy of Piedmont red grapes, Barbera sometimes gets overlooked. But after tasting two impressive examples recently, I’m going to keep an eye out for it.
Old school choice
G. Conterno, Barbera d’Alba, Cascina Francia, 2005 ($30; find this wine)
A traditional producer, Giacamo Conterno makes some of my favorite Barolos and this Barbera from the Cascina Francia vineyard is also a gem–at a fraction of the price of the Barolos. Light in color, with aromas of dark fruits and some savory notes, the terrific wine has great poise through good acidity, some youthful vigor, and a well integrated, lingering finish. I really liked it now (a great choice for fall) and bought some extra bottles for continuing to watch it evolve over the next decade. Pairs well with fatty foods–how could you go wrong with a mushroom risotto?
Less old school choice
Sandrone, Barbera d’Alba, 2006 ($35; find this wine)
Luciano Sandrone is a self-described modernist and a traditionalist. This is another style of Barbera, one with more oomph, but attractive nonetheless in its more sultry rendition, particularly for drinking in the nearer term. Barbara Sandrone told me that they had good acidity but ripeness in 2006; the twenty day fermentation occurred in stainless steel then the wine proceeded to a malolactic fermentation in 500 liter oak barrels. The aromas really soar from the glass in this showy wine with richness and integration on the palate.
